Solar Cooking
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Sharon is primarily cooking at 47 degrees north latitude with an occasional foray into the San Jose CA area. She suspects that further south the EZ-3 will work better if it is tipped back a bit, with a stick or small board or pebbles under the front of the cooker to lift it. Level out the bottom with a false bottom (foiled, of course) and figure out some way to shim the corner so your pot or jar will still be reasonably level. Also, opt for slightly shorter and slightly wider at the bottom, within the limitations of your bag. Further south, you need less height and more side-wall. [[File:EZ3-S1_S2_S4_N1.png|left|thumb|400px| Scale drawings of side-view for four EZ-3 models. N1 is the original northern model, designed at 47N. S1, S2, and S4 all work better farther south, when tested a little below 38N, esepcially with a simple additional black bottom piece.]]
 
Sharon is primarily cooking at 47 degrees north latitude with an occasional foray into the San Jose CA area. She suspects that further south the EZ-3 will work better if it is tipped back a bit, with a stick or small board or pebbles under the front of the cooker to lift it. Level out the bottom with a false bottom (foiled, of course) and figure out some way to shim the corner so your pot or jar will still be reasonably level. Also, opt for slightly shorter and slightly wider at the bottom, within the limitations of your bag. Further south, you need less height and more side-wall. [[File:EZ3-S1_S2_S4_N1.png|left|thumb|400px| Scale drawings of side-view for four EZ-3 models. N1 is the original northern model, designed at 47N. S1, S2, and S4 all work better farther south, when tested a little below 38N, esepcially with a simple additional black bottom piece.]]
   
Another trip south provided opportunity for further development, and there are now three versions of the EZ-3—still all basically simple box corners—that will work much better farther south than the original model (N1), especially with the addition of a simple additional black bottom piece. The more southerly models go into the turkey-size oven bags sideways instead of feet-first. S1 is a little simpler to make and has an amazing little late-day burst, S2 had the strongest performance in terms of reaching high heat and holding it until the first drop, but it only showed a late-day surge right at the end of the time of surge. S4 had a factor (newest model, still some glue moisture probably) that may have skewed its tests. I think it should have done better than it did and might be worth a try still. All of the southern models will work better with an additional black bottom layer. One way to achieve this is to trace the interior floor of the cooker and cut out a piece of corrugated cardboard. Trace and cut out a piece of black poster-board and glue it to the cardboard—you will need to smooth it flat and press it with some weight to make sure there is good contact. When dry, paint with two coats of black tempera mixed with a little white glue (Elmer's, PVA) or non-toxic-when dry spray paint. Without paint, the paper will fade very quickly, and the paint will go on more efficiently on the poster-board than it does on brown corrugated. An alternative to this black bottom might be two triangles from a 6" ceramic tile cut corner-to-corner, black or painted black, to put in the two front corners. Silver directly under and in front of the pot is good in the south, having a heat sink in the corners—even blackened cardboard—gives it an amazing boost. Sharon made the corrugated-plus-poster-board and paint bottoms for her side-by-side tests, with a thin center panel of foil folded over poster-board—just enough support for the foil to keep it flat. This arrangement was clearly superior to the original silver bottom in the trials near San Jose CA. Sharon will send a free pair of cut, painted ceramic triangles to the first person from farther south to contact her and let her know they have an EZ-3 built and ready for testing in exchange for test data.
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Another trip south provided opportunity for further development, and there are now three versions of the EZ-3—still all basically simple box corners—that will work much better farther south than the original model (N1), especially with the addition of a simple additional black bottom piece. The more southerly models go into the turkey-size oven bags sideways instead of feet-first. S1 is a little simpler to make and has an amazing little late-day burst, S2 had the strongest performance in terms of reaching high heat and holding it until the first drop, but it only showed a late-day surge right at the end of the time of surge. S4 had a factor (newest model, still some glue moisture probably) that may have skewed its tests. I think it should have done better than it did and might be worth a try still. All of the southern models will work better with an additional black bottom layer. One way to achieve this is to trace the interior floor of the cooker and cut out a piece of corrugated cardboard. Trace and cut out a piece of black poster-board and glue it to the cardboard—you will need to smooth it flat and press it with some weight to make sure there is good contact. When dry, paint with two coats of black tempera mixed with a little white glue (Elmer's, PVA) or non-toxic-when dry spray paint. Without paint, the paper will fade very quickly, and the paint will go on more efficiently on the poster-board than it does on brown corrugated. An alternative to this black bottom might be two triangles from a 6" ceramic tile cut corner-to-corner, black or painted black, to put in the two front corners. Silver directly under and in front of the pot is good in the south, having a heat sink in the corners—even blackened cardboard—gives it an amazing boost. Sharon made the corrugated-plus-poster-board and paint bottoms for her side-by-side tests, with a think center panel of foil folded over poster-board—just enough support for the foil to keep it flat. This arrangement was clearly superior to the original silver bottom in the trials near San Jose CA. Sharon will send a free pair of cut, painted ceramic triangles to the first person from farther south to contact her and let her know they have an EZ-3 built and ready for testing in exchange for test data.
   
 
EZ-3 also handles wind fairly well, if you give it a little support so it doesn't just blow away. You can put a couple of foiled chunks of rocks in it to add a little weight, and it can be braced behind with anything heavy—water jugs, big rocks, wood chunks, bricks, etc. Close it as tightly as you can if it will be cooking in the wind, to keep billowing to an absolute minimum
 
EZ-3 also handles wind fairly well, if you give it a little support so it doesn't just blow away. You can put a couple of foiled chunks of rocks in it to add a little weight, and it can be braced behind with anything heavy—water jugs, big rocks, wood chunks, bricks, etc. Close it as tightly as you can if it will be cooking in the wind, to keep billowing to an absolute minimum
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